Type 980 Dart Shoulder Jacket

A dart is a closed pleat, used to take shape out of a fabric panel without cutting a seam. To shape and stiffen the shoulders, the fronts and backs of the Dart Shoulder Jacket are cut in a single, straight, piece, which is darted at an angle where a shoulder seam normally would be. The dart is pressed open on the inside of the coat, and top-stitched either side, making a thicker section which supports the sleeve and collar, giving the coat a subtly tailored shape. Likewise, the back seam is cut with a wide inlay, which is pressed open and top-stitched parallel to the seam, accenting the line of the back.

Previously made with folded-back bucket pockets, this version of the Dart Shoulder Jacket has riveted patch pockets and buttoned cuffs.